Yes, I am...an American!

We did good America! President Barack Obama. It feels really good to be able to say it. This election meant many different things to Americans. Most of us are able to take away something by his victory. As President Obama said:

"If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible; who still wonders if the dream of our founders is alive in our time; who still questions the power of our democracy, tonight is your answer."

I'm glad we have an intelligent (and Democratic) voice back in the White House. Most importantly, America overcame a racial barrier to elect its first black president. It's about time!

Living abroad, I really got the sense of how low our reputation had become in the eyes of the world. There was a sense of disappointment and maybe even anger: Bush, Cheney, their policies, treatment of detainees, the war in Iraq, etc. I also saw how closely many non-Americans followed our presidential race. Our friends watched the debates and wanted to discuss them! CNN US political coverage can get to be too much, but thank goodness they kept us in the loop here.

To celebrate the anticipated Obama victory, I went to an election event on Wednesday morning sponsored the American Chamber of Commerce - Shanghai, U.S. Consulate and American Women's Club at the Hilton. As you can imagine, it was an overwhelming pro-Obama crowd. Who wants to come out to drown in defeat? Hee, hee...(An American pub nearby had sponsored an Obama event...something tells me that had more fun. Oh well!) A group of us with our Obama buttons and gear eagerly watched the results come in on a big screen. Pennsylvania, Florida, Virginia, etc...

I clearly remember the moment. CNN was announcing results, but then it flashed to a screen that said President Elect Barack Obama. We screamed with excitement. People rose up around the room to clap. Pure eurphora. Loved it! It was moving to see Obama speak in front of the thousands in Chicago after the victory. (John McCain also gave an eloquent concession speech.)

One of my friends here who is Argentinean (but spent most of her life in Brazil) wrote to me to say that she was so proud of America and Americans. She even got emotional with Barack's victory.

In some ways, we've partially redeemed ourselves by electing Obama. Now for the real test. Time to get to work. Time to try to rescue the economy. Figure out how to end the war in Iraq. Rebuild America. I definitely feel comfortable and optimistic with Obama leading the way.

Got (melamine free) milk?

I cannot even begin to fathom who would think adding melamine -- an industiral chemical -- to baby formula wouldn't get babies sick or kill them.

Melamine commonly is used in coatings and laminates, wood adhesives, fabric coatings, ceiling tiles and flame retardants. This is the same chemical from China last year that sickened and killed thousands of pets in the U.S. The chemical can make milk seem like it has a higher protein level.

Now we have over 50,000 sick babies and four that have died from the contamination. The company then tried to cover up complaints as early as Dec. 2007, the New York Times reported. This scheme has bankrupted the company. Plus, China's entire dairy industry will suffer. For what? So a company could make a little extra profit.

In Shanghai, there is hardly any milk left in aisles once full of numerious brands. I checked three grocery stores this week. The tainted milk has been pulled and then everyone rushed out to buy the imported milk. (It's not recommended to buy fresh milk here because they add too many hormones.) I only have one spare half gallon of my imported milk from New Zealand. Hopefully, they'll restock the shelves with 'good' milk soon. In the meantime, I bought some Australian soy milk.

The milk scandal in China has ramafications throughout the world with products being pulled from the shelves containing potentially tainted milk powder: cookies, pastries, and chocolate. www.nytimes.com/2008/09/26/world/asia/26melamine.html?hp. One of the largest Chinese product recalls is White Rabbit, a popular milky tootsie roll-like candy. I've had the candy before and now wonder if it had melamine in it. http://edition.cnn.com/2008/WORLD/asiapcf/09/26/china.milk/index.html. These products aren't as dangerous as the powdered milk formula because of the lower content of milk in them. The babies in China relied on the milk as their main source of nourishment.

Let's just hope the government understands that it needs to step up its inspections. It's a problem all over the world, people don't care about others when they start getting too greedy. This time, the consequences are devastating for babies and their families in China.

Did I really see...

a two year old infant pooping over a garbage in a subway station? It was during the weekend rush, too. The mother held up the infant while she did her thing. Then shook the child to finish off the job if you can imagine. I turned away pretty quickly once I realized what was going on. Yikes!

Going Organic...in China

I recently wrote a story for the local expat newspaper, The Shanghai Daily, about the organic market in Shanghai. With concerns related to soil and chemicals, the majority of expats and foreigners opt for organic fruits and vegetables.

For locals, the prices for organic produce remain steep...two bell peppers go for about $2 US dollars, three potatoes and a pack of cherry tomatoes for a buck. Plus, people here are just simply trying to make a living...learning more about safer produce is probably one of the last things on their minds.

Nationwide, organics consumers account for no more than 3 percent of China’s total population. Most of China's organic products are shipped abroad to the American and European markets.

I admit, back at home I didn't buy too many organic fruits and vegetables. I buy mostly organic here because I worry about the lack of regulations and prices don't seem expensive from an American perspective.

There are big and small players in the market. I visited a small farm for my story. You could see their passion and enjoyment in promoting their organic produce and products. The highlight of the visit was trying some refreshing organic ice cream in two interesting flavors - cherry tomato and pumpkin.

Their message harkens back to taking care of environment by not using fertilizers and chemicals. Definitely an important reason to support the organic movement.

Here's the story:

The fragrant smell of basil filled the greenhouse on a sultry summer day as Yong-Qin Wang worked to clear the weeds from the herbs. Outside, plastic bottles rigged to catch pests naturally lured them in with pollen inside. In another greenhouse, asparagus and red peppers grew side-by-side because the pests attracted to each vegetable are known to attack each other.

This is a small glimpse of the inner workings at BIOFarm, a small organic operation with 100 acres in the ChuanSha modern Agriculture Exhibiting Area near the Pudong International Airport. Free of chemical aids, the cultivation process – from sowing of the seeds to harvest - requires more labor and patience for yields of cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, ginger, and red orka.

“Organic takes more time to grow because we have to follow nature’s rules. Chemicals can do a lot of things, but they can be toxic to our health,” said Jane Tsao, director of public relations and events at BIOFarm.

Organic leaf vegetables can take up to 25 days to grow compared to 10 to 14 days. Tomatoes sometimes will require three to four months instead of two months. The higher prices of organic foods, due to the labor costs and lower yields, remain a barrier reaching more new customers.

Despite the harsh weather extremes, the organic market is growing in Shanghai with many farms – about 40 km away – bringing in fresh produce in everyday to area supermarkets and homes.

A Greenpeace survey from 2006 commissioned in Shanghai, Beijing and Guangdong, found middle-high income family were the main target consumer for organic foods because they were willing to pay three to four times more for organic products. Shanghai consumers were the most concerned about food quality.

It’s no longer only expatriates and foreigners seeking out organic products in Shanghai, said Guy Wiener, general manager of Shanghai Organics, the largest and first organic producer in Shanghai.

“Local customers are more aware of healthy food and more people can afford it,” Wiener said. “When you can afford it, you get to know it. Then you’ll want to buy it because it’s better for you.”

What’s organic exactly?

Foods claiming to be organic must be free of artificial food additives and are often processed with fewer artificial methods, materials and conditions. This growing process doesn’t include any chemical ripening, genetically modified ingredients, chemical pesticides, or herbicides.

Currently, people can find wide range organic goods beyond fruits and vegetables. These include honey, milk powder, rice, dried beans, and tea.

Nanjing-based Organic Food Development Center (OFDC) is the main certifier of organic food in China. The agency, founded in 1994, is recognized by the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM), a global organics certifier.

IFOAM standards- a set of principles, recommendations, and baselines to ensure organic integrity - is compatible with U.S., European, and Japanese rules.

To sustain OFDC certification, farms undergo yearly inspections of farm fields and processing facilities and periodic testing of soil and water. Some consumer distrust remains with fake labeling and regulation standards. Many organic producers in Shanghai encourage customers to visit their farms to establish a sense of trust.

Weiner said the United States faced similar trust issues 20 years ago when its organic market began to emerge. He estimates the China organic market is about five years behind the United States and Europe.

“Every market will be regulated, it’s just a matter of time,” he said.

Organic in Shanghai

Higher incomes and awareness has been the key that has turned more people to organic produce in Shanghai.

“It’s healthier for everyone,” said Shirley Sun, 27, who began buying organic produce a couple of years ago.

“I buy organic, but not always because the price is so much higher. My parents who are over 50 will not buy it, said Sun, a 27-year-old executive assistant. “For local people, regular vegetables are more common. You can only see the organic in certain markets.”

One box of organic vegetables is 10 kuai compared to one kuai for a regular vegetable, Sun said. (It's about $1 US dollar for 7 kaui.)

For mothers like Kristy White, she’s found increasing evidence from her home country of Australia that a 100 percent organic diet can improve the immune system of young children. She plans to follow this diet for her 4 month son once he starts eating solid foods.

“I feel like the organic fruits and vegetables are cleaner. There’s less potential that it’s ridden with chemicals,” said White, 34, who worked in international relations before moving to Shanghai.

Launched this past spring, the Organic Garden program from Shanghai Roots & Shoots has given area schools and universities first hand knowledge of growing organic foods with assistance from BIOFarm and Shanghai Organics.

Students from 14 schools cared for gardens on school grounds. They used organic fertilizer and red earthworms to prep the soil, and kept up the gardens with weeding and bug catching.

“The students are very happy with their work. Not only do they learn about organic, they also think about why it’s good for us and why it matters for the earth,” said Catharine Gong, program coordinator at Shanghai Roots & Shoots Program.

Experts from BIO Farm showed students the proper techniques for organic farming and they’ve also invited classes out to the farm for further education. The hope is that these students will also teach their parents.

“We want more customers to understand organic. We want more people to join us,” said Sherrie Tien, founder and director of BIOFarm. “Everyday is a movement on how to change the environment.”

Haze, smog, fog, a little steam?

As you already know, the skies have been unforgiving to Beijing for the past week. All those images of Olympic stadium shrouded in a thick, murky layer of...what? That's been the debate all week. Some officials said it's like the steam after a shower, and that we can't possibly rely on pictures when it comes to determining pollution. (Well, the air quality tests tell us it's more than just a little steam. http://olympics.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/08/07/on-bad-air-day-in-beijing-ioc-president-sees-fog/)

This hard-to-follow quote from International Olympic Committee president Jacques Rogge on Thursday sums up this 'complex' situation. “The fog you see is based on the basis of humidity and heat,” Rogge said at a news conference. “It does not mean to say that this fog is the same as pollution. It can be pollution, but the fog doesn’t mean necessarily that it is pollution.

Let the games begin!

I started writing down my thoughts last week about the lead up to the Olympics, but decided it best remained unpublished for now. It's sad to think that I've censored myself. Unfortunately, you do get the sense that "big brother" might be watching when you're living here.

Anyway, a more amusing aspect of the preparation leading up to the games has been teaching "manners" in Beijing. Throughout China, there isn't a second thought to hocking up a loggie in the middle of crowded street, sometimes even inside, too. The only expection is in Hong Kong where I never heard one person spit in public during an entire visit. (The Taiwanese also don't spit in public either.)

After taking the train from Hong Kong back to mainland China, I had one of those 'welcome back to China' moments at the Shenzhen train station. A lack of order as people chaotic hustled to the customs line followed by the endless sounds of people spitting right outside the terminal. At that point, I wanted to retreat back to Hong Kong for a few more days.

The concept of standing in line doesn't exist here. When I'm waiting for the subway in Shanghai, it's inevitable someone will jump in front of me as it arrives to get on first. I've taken to elbowing these people with a disgusted look on my face. (I guess, that's not good manners either. Oops! Some days you get too frustrated!)

Pushing even occurs when it's not necessary, which confuses me. Last week, I was perusing some sale racks at Uniqlo. Not too crowded. Just me in the aisle. This woman comes through and doesn't even try to go around me. She bullies me to move because I'm somehow in her way now. I finally moved over because she was relentless...and I felt ridiculous trying to hold my ground.

Apparently, efforts to improve manners, especially in Beijing, have gone on for a couple of years now (http://nbcsports.msnbc.com/id/11626341/site/21683474/). The China Daily reports some improvements (www.chinadaily.com.cn/olympics/2008-02/08/content_6445702.htm). Can you believe this? The 11th of each month is officially considered "Queuing Day" as passengers are told to stand in line while waiting for buses. I can't imagine anyone remembering this day after pushing and shoving for the rest of the month.

At the end of day, an event like the Olympics - which will quickly come and go after all this prep work - is not enough to change the cultural habits of 1 billion people. It's telling that the government set out on a manners campaign though. Perhaps, can we say that foreigners have better manners than the Chinese?

You're looking fat...

There aren't any qualms here when it comes to critiquing your appearance. Just last week, a housekeeper pointed to a picture of me (and my husband) on our refrigerator. She asked if it was me in the picture. I confirmed that it was me. She then proceeded to puff up her cheeks like a chipmunk holding a mouthful of acorns and pointed at me in the picture. I'm not sure if I was supposed to take this as a complement, but she then pointed back at me signaling that I looked thin now. Phew, right?!

I've had one of my husband's coworkers tell me that I either looked more fat now or fat in my wedding photos. I didn't bother to ask her to clarify which ones I looked "fat" in. One of my friends said she's been greeted by a Chinese friend with a "you're looking fat today."

I'm not sure what accounts for the directness with issues of weight. I was listening to Chinese Pod (a daily Mandarin lesson podcast) about this issue. The Chinese host said they're more direct about these issues, while the American host said we probably treated it more delicately because obesity is a widespread problem for us.

Whatever the reason, it's unexpected to get these types of comments. I'm not sure what my take is on this frankness. I can say that it wouldn't be well received in the U.S...

Not so safe?

Most Asian cities are considered very safe compared to their American counterparts. It's been one of the great things about Shanghai. In general, violent crime is almost unheard of, and the worst that can happen is getting your purse snatched.

Living in Philly, it was the norm to see headlines about murders, shootings, etc. I also worked in North Philadelphia, one of the worst neighborhoods in the city. One time, my friend Alix and I got caught in the middle of police chase on the way to work. While at a stop sign, the suspect (we later found out that he was wanted for a stabbing) suddenly rolled across the hood of Alix's blue Toyota Echo. A few moments later, a couple of cops --who looked like that they had had too many doughnuts -- chased him down the street. I couldn't imagine something like that happening here.

With the lack of crime here, it only takes a couple of events to create a stir. Earlier this month, a man went on a stabbing spree in a local police station. Six officers died as a result. Reports said that Yang Jia, 28, carried a hammer, a dust mask and an unlit Molotov cocktail along with the knife into the building. He set eight beer bottles on fire outside the gate of the bureau's office as a diversionary tactic and stabbed an officer when he intervened. The motive? Revenge for being questioned by the police from the bureau last October for allegedly stealing bikes, according to the local newspaper.

Last week, an 18-year-old man killed a Canadian model in her high rise apartment after she tried to fight him off during a robbery (www.usatoday.com/life/people/2008-07-11-obrienmurder_N.htm). Diana O'Brien, 22, came to Shanghai with the hopes of expanding her modeling portfolio. Her death has resulted in the exposure of the city's unregulated modeling industry where models are asked to dance at bars or work at corporate parties.

One Shanghai casting call asked for models to strip to their underwear and jump on a trampoline while being filmed, said Jeremy Stockton Johnson, a fashion photographer who said he also has been asked if models are available to strip at parties. Worse cases include agencies that take away a model's passport or withhold payment until the end of a contract. (From USA Today via the Associated Press)

Needless to say, the expat community has been talking about these events. In my nine months here, this is most violent and disturbing news that has come along.

Closer to home and in no way comparable to the tragic events mentioned above are some recent muggings right outside my apartment complex. Two muggings in one week. There's a Hofbrauhaus, Starbucks, Papa John's and Julie's Cafe on this street, but it gets pretty quiet at night In one incident, a group of three people robbed someone. Then a resident from the complex was mugged in the other case. Someone sucker punched the 16-year-old as he rounded a corner near the Hofbrauhaus. Luckily, he wasn't seriously injuried from the incident. (He even got some punches in and drew blood.)

Getting to these restaurants is literally a 2 minute walk from our complex. It's unfortunate that I have to rethink going over there by myself now. Maybe I should have all along. While Shanghai is still a safe place, recent events serve as a reminder to always be more cautious than needed when it comes to your personal safety.

Not enough green leverage...

I was disappointed to find out today that Carrefour will only be charging less than 1 yuan (7 yuan makes up one U.S. dollar for now) for per a plastic bag to customers that don't bring their own. Unfortunately, I don't think this "financial burden" will convince anyone to make a concerted effort to bring cloth bags to the grocery stores.

This is somewhat similar to the situation in the U.S. with gas prices. It's only $4 a gallon gas that will convince someone to use public transportation, buy a more fuel efficient vehicle, and rethink their habits. (My husband, Josh, has been saying this for awhile and here's an excellent Thomas Friedman column on the topic, http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/28/opinion/28friedman.html?em&ex=1212206400&en=6acc7e173e4e0dc8&ei=5087%0A.)

Some people need to lose green before they decide to go green. The consequences are immediate and personal. I guess, that's the incentive for change that works the best.

The Highs/Lows of Expat Life

It's hard to believe that 6 months have past living in Shanghai. There have been "bad China days" (as many expats would say) and days where I'm amazed by what I've experienced in this rapidly developing country.

Here's a quick rundown of what I've seen so far:

Lows
-Censorship: Blocked Web sites have included..wikipedia, philly.com, some Taiwan sites, occasional Web links on the news Web sites such at the New York Times and CNN

-Polution: Can I look directly at the sun most days through the haze? Yes!

-Grocery shopping: A one hour grocery trip now takes about 3 hours or more. I need to check out 4 grocery stores to find the more Western items. Things that are hard to find at times include, sour cream, cream cheese, canned black beans, and chicken sausage. I cannot get red pepper flakes, buttermilk (I miss buttermilk pancakes!), cheese curds, or hot italian sausage.

-Mold: There isn't any installation in my apartment. Most new high rise apartments are built using concrete for their exterior walls. The warm heat inside and cool, humid air outside created the perfect conditions for mold to take over our walls this past winter. To make it worse, our property managment kept scaping off the mold off our damp walls and it kept coming back for 2 months. Mold isn't a health concern here so they didn't take us very seriously until...we got my husband's company involved to help us find a more permanent solution to the problem.

-Smoking: A nice relaxing brunch on Saturday or Sunday morning interupted with smoke being blown in your face. In general, many more people smoke here than in the U.S. They may not have a obesity problem, but they've got a smoking one.

-Spitting : This is no regular spitting. Before someone spits here, they make sure that they've completely cleared out their throat in the loudest way possible. People spit inside grocery stores, constantly into garbage cans everywhere, and out of cars onto the sidewalk without a second thought.

-Pushing: You can't leave any space in line or you'll risk someone getting in front of you. I've even had to throw an elbow here and there. With both the spitting and pushing, I constantly remind myself that this is the norm here.

-Food poisoning: Luckily, Josh and I haven't had serious food poisoning...yet. Josh had it the worst one time after eating food at a cafeteria. He had stomach cramps for several days and a fever for one day. I got the shivers and felt nausous for a day after eating at a microbrewery for lunch.

Enough complaining, I know. Overall, this has been a great experience and I look forward to the next couple of years. To counter the lows, here are my highlights:

Highs

-Navigating a new environment : It's always fascinating to walk the streets and observe daily life in the city.

-Learning a new language: I would consider this both a high and a low. I've quickly learned that picking up Mandarin will not be easy. Weekly lessons with a tutor have been fun and frustrating at times. I'll definitely keep practicing and taking the lessons though!

-Travel: I've really enjoyed trips in the region (Taiwan, Malaysia), within China (Qingdao, Guilin/Yangshuo) and near Shanghai (Hangzhou, Suzhou). It's gotten me more interested in photography with all the things that we've seen -- whether if it's kids having fun at the park, breathtaking landscapes, or capturing what I perceive to be funny poses by the Chinese for photos.

-Restaurants: While grocery shopping can be tough, there is no shortage of selection when it comes to restaurants. Some of my favorite places are Din Tai Feng for the best broth filled pork dumplings, and Paul, a French bakery with mouthwatering macaroons.

-Meeting fellow expats and local friends: We've met expats from the U.S., Australia, Europe, Brazil, etc. to join us in our exploring and they've continuously offered us support when we needed it. Our Chinese friends have helped us learn more about the culture and not to get ripped off when we go bargin.

-Shopping: There appears to be an endless amount of stores here. I'll just say you can find all sorts of boutiques and department stores. Getting custom made clothes at reasonable prices is a plus, too. Josh can't get enough of his fitted dress shirts.

Most striking

-The abundance of labor: I've never seen so many people working in hotels, restaurants, and retail stores. No excuse for bad service! (I think the excess of labor keeps some processes from becoming more efficient, but that's a whole other subject for another post.)

-The rapidly changing landscape: Neighborhoods disappear and high rises seem to go up at a constant pace.

-The gap between the poor and the more affluent: Many people here in the city still live in terrible conditions with luxury hotels/highrises just next door.

Unexpected

-People freely going through your items at IKEA or at the grocery store. If you're not looking, they may even take something out. Be watchful!

-Chinese people don't exercise the same way people do in the U.S. Parks are filled with people strolling around with some women in uncomfortable high heels. There are hardly any runners. I've even seen women wear high heels on a hike before.

Well...this is a brief glipse into my life here at this point. It'll be interesting to see how my perspective changes in time. I look forward to learning more of the language to increase my freelance opportunties with local publications and to send stories back to the U.S.

Going Green in Shanghai

More than ever, it's become important to spread "green" messages in China. As the economy continues to develop, people need to know that they can play a role on the individual level to fight the effects of global warming.

After moving here, I was shocked to find that a formal recycling program doesn't exist. Right now, people will go through the garbage to look for items like plastic bottles to take to recycling centers. The government is beginning to take some action by banning filmsy plastic bags in grocery stores. People will now have to pay if they want to use the bags. It's the hope that people will go back to using cloth bags and baskets like they did 20 years ago.

The following article will appear in the June issue of The Courier, the magazine of the Shanghai Expatriate Association. Before writing the story, I thought that I was doing a pretty good job with being green - bringing cloth bags to the grocery store, taking shorter showers, and turning off lights when I left a room. But I quickly found out that there is so much more than I could be doing after doing interviews with these environmental groups and firms. I've decided my next efforts to be more green will involve using more public transportation and buying more local foods. I just started to unplug all my appliances at the wall if I'm not using them.

Here's my story:

In Shanghai, it’s easy to see the environmental consequences of rapid economic development with the hazy skies and murky waters.

Grappling with these issues throughout the country, the Chinese government has ordered the ban of free ultra-thin plastic bags common at shops and supermarkets starting in June. Customers will need to pay for any that they use. People go through up to 3 billion plastic shopping bags a day in China.

The government has also called for the return of cloth bags and shopping baskets that residents used before the filmsy plastic bags became widely available. While it’s an important initiative, Shanghai firms, organizations, and environmental advocates say that more can be done at the individual level.

This city wide green effort kicked off in April at the Eco Design Fair at the Urbn Hotel, the country’s first carbon neutral hotel. The fair featured products from over 25 eco-conscious businesses and groups, including organic clothing, home accessories, toys, building materials. A portion of the proceeds were donated to Shanghai Roots & Shoots and its tree planting program in Inner Mongolia.

“Green living is a consciousness of lifestyle…understanding how our lifestyles impact our surrounding environments,” said Ryan Dick, A00 Architecture. The firm encourages clients to incorporate green elements into their projects.

A00 Architecture along with SGTH Design, Wobabybasics, and the Urbn Hotel recently formed Green Ideas Green Action (GIGA) to share the best practices for sustainability in the design community. The group has started a database of local sources of green materials and textiles on its Web site.

GIGA holds events for the design community, but we will also plan events for the general public to share ideas on how to be more green, Dick said.

Dick said tracking an energy bill can help someone start reducing their energy consumption. Some simple steps that can be taken in home include turning up the thermostat a few degrees during the summer and unplugging appliance from the wall.

“It starts creating an awareness. Once you start actively paying attention, it makes you enthused to do more,” he said.

The challenge ahead cited by groups like GIGA is creating a consciousness about environmental issues and the individual’s influence on a daily basis.

“A lot of people want to do something, but they think, ‘Can an individual make a difference? It’s up to the corporations and government.’ With 1.3 billion people, everyone can make a difference” said Jessica Sun, who founded Shanghai Live Green Eco-Tech Inc last year. The company spearheads educational programming and produces eco-friendly products such as bags made out of recylcled plastic bottles and portable stainless steel chopsticks.

“In the old days, we would reuse, but now people want the convenience. We tell people it’s a lifestyle [to be green], it’s not just going back to the old times,” added Sun, a native Shanghaiese, who returned to the city in 2006 after living in Canada for a decade.

“The economic development is good, but it’s the cause of the environmental impact. Climate change is the threat that we’re facing,” she said.

Sun and her group currently works with the local municipal governement and universities. They’ve held “no plastic bag days” at area supermarkets and forums for the students to watch the American documentary, An Inconvenient Truth.

Shanghai firms have also taken education to rural areas. Environmental consultants from Greennovate started the Greennovate Environmental Challenge for Kids Outreach (GECKO) after working with businesses in these areas.

We designed 6 modules that give an introduction into how the environment works and how people impact it. The program takes place over the course of several months. Currently, 1,000 students from two high schools and one middle school in Guizhou Province are participating, said Mihela Hladin, general manager of Greenovate.

“If we teach a message with them, they can reach the entire family. We are showing them that they can do something small and it counts,” Hladin said.

In Moganshan, a thickly forested hilltop area about 60 km north of Hangzhou and 200km away from Shanghai, Naked Retreats offers guests a more green place to stay. The retreat rennovated and operates its houses in an environmentally friendly manner, promotes environmental awareness through education, and provides employment opportunities in the immediate area to residents.

“It’s part of our internal philosophy…More than tips, we’re sharing an attitude about our earth,” said Gabriela Lo, managing director of Naked Retreats.

The retreat doesn’t market itself as eco-friendly, but many of guests find out how we operate, Lo said.

In a city of 18 million, environmental advocates remain optimistic that changes will take place over time. With the World Expo in 2010, the city is expected to go green where it can in the planning of the festivities.

The eco-conscious group is growing among the Shanghaiese and there are more expats coming to live here, Sun said. “Expats are trendsetters to Chinese people. The Chinese people think what the foreigners do is fashionable,” she said.

Hladin said students in the rural communities have taken a strong interest in their efforts in reaching out to them.

“I think the foreign community is at a high level of awareness. This is a good first step,” said Hladin. “NGOs are also running more programs. It shows big interest that this is the way to go.”

Boxes accompanying the story:

What is a carbon footprint?

A carbon footprint is a measure in units of carbon dioxide that calculates the impact of human activities to global warming. Some of these activities include lighting and electricity, heating and cooling of the home, transport, travel, and the purchasing of goods. Calculate your footprint at www.carbonfootprint.com. Living a greener lifestyle can help reduce your footprint.


Everyday Tips for Being Green:

-Unplug your appliances/electronics at the wall
Appliances on “stand by” look like they are switched off, but they still drawing a significant amount of power - and costing you money. You can turn off your computer at the end of each day.

-Bring your own bags for shopping
Jooi Design and Greennovate have collaborated on a reusable Bag that is functional and compactable that you can carry with you everywhere. Proceeds from the sale of the bag will go to Greenovate’s efforts to educate children in rural China about the environment. Bags available at the Jooi Design Studio, International Artist Factory - Taikang Lu, Lane 210, Studio 201, www.jooi.com. Shanghai Live Green Eco-Tech sells a bag made out of recycled plastic bottles, www.livegreen.com.cn.

- Wash your clothes in cold or warm water instead of hot
Using warn or cold water saves 500 pounds of carbon dioxide a year, according to climatecrisis.net. Drying your clothes on a clothesline six months out of the year would save another 700 pounds.

-Pay for your carbon emissions
You can help offset the carbon footprint of your car, home and air travel by funding renewable energy projects through Shanghai Roots & Shoots’ Carbon Footprint Planting program (www.jgi-shanghai.org). Buy a tree for 25 rmb or a well for 8,000 rmb.

-Buy locally produced goods and food
Being in China, buying local goods isn’t a problem, but cutting down on buying imported goods can help.

-Use public transportation, bike, or walk when you can

-Turn off the lights when you leave the room

-Buy a reusable plastic water bottle

-Take shorter showers


For more information and tips:

-Greenspace, www.greenspace.cn/en/index.html, go there to download "The Environmentally Friendly Gardener"

-Greenovate, www.greennovate.net/

-The Daily Green, www.thedailygreen.com

-Green Ideas Green Action (GIGA) www.giga-china.com

-Eco Design Fair. www.ecodesignfair.org The fair was in April, but the site features a directory of companies and individuals that offer environmentally friendly products and services.

-Naked Retreats www.nakedretreats.cn

-Live Green Eco www.livegreen.com.cn

Taipei: A vibrant city with friendly people

The following is my first stab at travel writing. A version similar to this will appear in the April issue of the Courier, the magazine of the Shanghai Expatriate Association. I tagged along with Josh to Taipei when he had a business trip there earlier this year. I explored the city on my own for a couple of days. Lots of walking through a variety of different neighborhoods. with locals willing to help when I couldn't find my destination. Then Josh and I headed up to the northern coast to do some hiking and relaxing in the hotsprings. We ended the trip back in the city with an evening stroll through some of its busiest parts.

In general, the people in Taipei felt more at ease than the Shanghaiese. There really wasn't any pushing in the subways or cutting in line. Taipei at 2.5 million is a small fraction of the size of Shanghai, which could explain the more laid back atmosphere. But the explanation most likely points to the fact that its people progressed in the absense of the the cultural revolution and communist rule.

Anyway, here's the story...

While Taipei isn’t usually considered a tourist destination, a recent visit revealed a vibrant city of 2.5 million teeming with fascinating cultural sites.

The city can look over run by industry in some parts, but you’ll quickly be won over by its upbeat energy in its neighborhoods. The capital of Taiwan is known for its friendly people and safe streets.

Taipei’s location in between lush mountains makes it a place where you can get it all in one vacation. Learn more about a culture dating back thousands of years, experience nightlife in the clubs or lively street markets, or discover the city’s new modern upscale avenues. Less than an hour away, there’s hiking in lush thick forests and the opportunity to relax in soothing hot springs.

The extensive Mass Rapid Transit System or MRT (http://english.trtc.com.tw/) is the best way to get around. The MRT is cheap, easy to use, and clean. Make sure to pick up a “Taipei City Travel” from a Taipei Metro information desk, which outlines sites along each of its stops. Trains typically run from 6 a.m. to midnight.

City Trek

On your first visit, a trip to the top of Taipei 101 skyscraper at 508 meters will give you an expansive view of the city and its surroundings. The building – one of the tallest in the world – stands out amongst the mostly low lying structures in the city.

The skyscraper is designed after the shape of bamboo, which represents fast growth and flexibility in Asian cultures. It’s also divided into 8 sections, 8 being a number associated with prosperity in Chinese culture. Attached to Taipei 101 is a high end shopping mall with cafes and one of city’s largest English book stores. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to Taipei 101 from the Taipei City Hall MRT Station. The ticketing booth and entrance are located at the 5th Floor of the Taipei 101 shopping mall. (No. 7 Hsinyi Road Section 5; Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 pm daily; Admission: 400 Taiwan dollars adults, 370 children).

Another essential place to go to is the National Palace Museum. It boasts one of the largest collections of Chinese artifacts and artwork in the world. The museum reopened in 2006 after an extensive four year renovation project. It features artifacts such as bronze, glass, and traditional paintings in well laid out exhibits with Mandarin and English descriptions. From the Jiantan MRT Station, the Red 30, 304 bus goes to the museum. (221 Chih-shan Rd., Sec. 2; Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, extended evening hours: every Saturday, 5:00 to 8:30 PM (during extended evening hours, free admission); Admission: 160 Taiwan dollars)

A stop at the Longshan Temple gives you a look into how the Taiwanese take a break from hectic city life. As you enter, the posts and beams of the temple have intricate carvings along side the multiple statutes of gods inside. Those coming to seek guidance fill long tables with a variety of offerings including fruit, flowers and potato chips. Street food vendors offer local foods and shops sell various goods outside the Temple. The temple has its own Longshan Temple MRT stop.

Two exciting neighborhoods that capture the more youthful part of the city are near National Taiwan University (nearest MRT station, Gongguan) and Ximending Circle (Ximen MRT Station). You can find cafes, bars, trendy boutiques, and book stores in both areas. The National Taiwan University streets tend to be quieter with its students and scholars.

For an early evening stroll, the Ximending Circle area sometimes has live rock bands playing outside near Zhongshan Hall. Nearby local artists displayed their funky artwork and jewelry for sale. You can also sit down for a drink and people watch at a row of bars with outdoor seating in a large courtyard near Zhongshan Hall or a restaurant in the pedestrian zone.

By sundown, the Shilin Market turns into one of busiest areas in town. Locals and tourists patiently walk in single file lines to peruse goods and grab a tasty late night snack. The market – the largest in the city - has one street that stretches down to the north with items such as t-shirts, the latest fashions, and shoes. Next to this is an indoor food court where you can find crème filled pastries, noodles, ice cream, stinky tofu, and oyster omelets. The market is conveniently located outside the Jiantan MRT Station.

To the sea

If you’re looking for a day trip, Danshui is a small historical port city located northwest of Taipei. It was the center of commerce in northern Taiwan during the 19th century. The Danshui MRT station is about a 45 minute ride from the Taipei Main Station. Once arriving at the station, clearly marked buses can take you to city’s parks, museums and historic sites. A street market with local foods and cheap shoes and clothes is tucked behind the main thoroughfare, which is five minute walk from the station into the town.

One of the most popular destinations is the Fisherman’s Wharf walking area, a 15 minute bus ride on Red 26 from the station will get you there. Near the boardwalk is the Lover’s bridge, a single slanted white tower cable stay pedestrian bridge made to look like a sailing ship's mast and rigging. The boardwalk is lined with cafes, ice cream stands, and small restaurants with the city’s local foods.

Northern Coast

A trip to Taipei isn’t complete without a visit north to its relaxing hot springs, which range from basic public baths to luxurious private resorts that offer spectacular views of the countryside. The three areas for hot springs are: Beitou, Yangminshan and Wulai. Wulai is located south of the city, while the other two are to the north.

A trip to Yangmingshan hot springs will also bring you into the lush forests of Yangmingshan National Park with its scenic hiking trails. Yangmingshan National Park can be reached by taking bus Red 5 from the Jiantan MRT station.

One of the most intriguing sites on the coast is Yeliou Geopark, located at Wanli. Yeliou is along an 1,700 meter long cape formed by the Datun Mountains reaching into the sea. The limestone layer on the seashore has been subject to erosion, weathering and earth movements, creating unique seawater eroded holes and rocks in the shapes of mushrooms, candle wicks, ginger, and spheres. A climb up to the observation deck gives you a view of the rock structures beneath the crystal clear blue ocean waters.

This quick guide is only a small glimpse into what Taipei has to offer. The city has numerous cultural sites and monuments that offer insights into the island’s history. Parks are scattered throughout the city. Traveling further south is also worth a trip. Eastern Taiwan, cut off from the rest of the island by mountains, contains Taiwan's most striking natural scenery. The country’s second largest city, Kaohsiung, and oldest city, Tainan, are located in the south of the island. The south is more tropical than the rest of the island.

For more information on Taipei and Taiwan:

www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/taiwan/

http://wikitravel.org/en/Taipei

http://wikitravel.org/en/Taiwan

http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/03/02/travel/02hours.html?pagewanted=1&ei=5070&em&en=5ce198d0ec93319e&ex=1204606800

For more information on hot spring resorts/spas:

www.smarttravelasia.com/taipei.htm

A little snow, a lot of problems...

It's been snowing here since last Saturday. It's the longest snowy stretch in 17 years. Accumulation reached almost 2 inches as of Tuesday, the most since 1984, according to the Shanghai Meteorological Bureau. The thick, slushy mess has caused roofs of old homes to collapse, halted trains and closed roads throughout the country. Read more at: http://edition.cnn.com/2008/WORLD/asiapcf/01/29/china.weather.apology/index.html?iref=mpstoryview#cnnSTCText

Amidst the serious problems, some have been able to relish this rare opportunity to enjoy it. You'd think this snowman in Century Park was a star. People lined up to take pictures with it in various poses.

Sleepy cat, clever rat

The New Year – 2008 – marks the year of the rat in the Chinese Zodiac. The zodiac is made up of 12 animals arranged in order from the rat through to the pig. The order was decided by a race between the animals, organized thousands of years ago by the Jade Emperor of China.

The story of how the rat came in first demonstrates its cleverness. The cat and the rat, who were friends, decided to help each other in the race. They asked the ox, an early riser, to wake them on the morning of the race, but when the sun rose they could not be woken. The ox decided to carry the cat and rat on his back and was crossing a river when the rat woke up. The rat pushed the cat into the river knowing the cat was a faster runner. Then the rat jumped off the ox as it reached the riverbank and ran to victory.

The ox finished second and was followed by the tiger, rabbit, dragon, snake, horse, goat, monkey, rooster, dog and pig. The cat was too late to be included in the zodiac and, according to the Chinese, is still chasing rats to this day.

As a cat owner, I had wondered why the cat wasn't in the zodiac. This story tells us one possible reason. Cats definitely sleep a lot and don't wake up easily!

A more modern Chinese New Year

The following is a feature that will appear in the February issue of the Courier, the magazine of the Shanghai Expatriate Association. I really enjoyed speaking to the Shanghai locals about how they celebrate the new year. They recalled childhood memories of spending time with family, the excitement of waking up to new clothes, the superstitions that they followed, and the abundance of special foods during this 15 day festival.

Today, the younger generation doesn't anticipate the holiday the same way in cities. New clothes just aren't as exciting when more people can buy them year round. Not cutting your hair during the first month of the new year to prevent "cutting away" your good fortune seems silly and unnecessary. While I've been told that the rural areas still celebrate in a traditional way, it's possible some traditions could be loss in the cities in the years to come.

Here's my story...

The most significant holiday for the Chinese, the New Year or Spring Festival means getting the year off to a good start by giving thanks with family, asking the gods for good fortune, honoring ancestors, eating special foods, cleaning and decorating the home, and setting off fireworks to ward off evil spirits.

While the core of the holiday lives on, greater financial stability and modern conveniences like grocery stores and restaurants has changed how the Chinese celebrate some traditions in cities like Shanghai.

The dates for the holiday are determined by the lunar calendar rather than the Gregorian calendar, varying the holiday from late January to early February. The festival begins on the eve (This year on February 6.) of the lunar New Year Day and ends on the full moon 15 days later. The 15th day of the New Year -- the Lantern Festival -- is celebrated at night with lantern displays and children carrying lanterns in a parade.

New Year’s Eve
“You can compare Chinese New Year’s to Christmas, the most important thing is for the family to get together,” said Shanghai resident Yi Yuan, the director of foreign education department for Shanghai Foreign Services Co., Ltd.

“New Year’s Eve is the most important time. In the morning, we will shop for foods to prepare later, buy fresh flowers for our homes for luck, and decorate our homes with signs that say happiness (le) and luck (fu),” she added.

This year, Yi Yuan’s family will go out for dinner at a restaurant instead of eating at home. Traditionally, the older generation will prepare most of the food for the dinner and we wanted to give my mother-in-law a rest, she said.

After dinner, the family along with millions of others will tune in on their TVs at 8 p.m. to the Spring Festival program from Beijing. The program, started about 10 years ago, features entertainment such as dancing and singing that will go into the wee hours of New Year. The family will chat and eat snacks during this time.

Around midnight, everyone will set off some fireworks to let the bad things out and the good things in, Yi Yuan said. The fireworks could last for a couple hours throughout the city.

One of the most important New Year’s legends involves a beast called Nian, which means year in English. It was said that Nian was so strong and ferocious that his roar could shake the skies and the earth. In cold winters, he would come down to attack the villages if he couldn’t find any prey in the mountains.

Over time, people discovered that Nian was afraid of three things: the color red, flame and sound. Therefore, one winter before Nian was about to come down from the mountains, the villagers put up red colors, lit fires in front of every house and stayed up all night making different sounds. This frightened Nian enough that he never came back. The Chinese have commemorated this victory ever since.

Progress means some changes
The north and south Chinese serve some different traditional foods to celebrate the holiday. In south China, typical dishes are nian gao, sweet steamed glutinous rice pudding and zong zi (glutinous rice wrapped up in reed leaves).

In the north, steamed-wheat bread (man tou) and small meat dumplings are preferred. The tremendous amount of food prepared at this time symbolizes abundance and wealth for the household.

Shanghai resident Haiping Lian, a conservation scientist specializing in bronze at the Shanghai Museum, said the younger generation, such as her 16-year-old daughter, does not follow some of the same new year superstitions.

“One superstition that my mother told me was get up early in the first day of New Year in order to begin the year well. Now I don't request my daughter do it like I did in my childhood,” she said.

Growing up in Guangdong Province, Haiping Lian’s family would prepare all types of cakes, fish, and chicken for New Year’s Eve dinner. Now they buy some of the items at the grocery store. However, the elements remain the same for the dinner, she said.

“A fish is the most important dish for the New Year’s Eve dinner, which represents the hope that you will have enough food and money for the year. Dumplings are also served,” Haiping Lian said.

Another tradition still followed is the grandmother or grandfather giving a small red bag of money (hong bao) to the children after dinner.

“We give the hong bao to the children to wish them peace and good health during the year,” Haiping Lian said.

In the past, children would also receive new clothes during this time. Haiping Lian said she remembers the excitement of waking up with new clothes next to her.

“But now, we can buy new clothes year round. Back then, more Chinese couldn’t buy new clothes,” said Haiping Lian, who does not buy her daughter new clothes specifically for the New Year.

“New Year’s was more exciting back then. In those days, we were much poorer. New Year’s was a time of eating more meat and new clothes,” said Shanghai resident Celia Guo, in her 20s.

Guo, from Jilin Province, doesn’t plan on going back home for the holiday this year for the first time. She plans on visiting her family during another festival later on this year. During the first few days of the new year, the Chinese will visit their family and friends to wish them well.

“It’s getting more difficult to go home because more people are leaving the countryside to study and work. Train tickets are hard to come by,” said Guo, a Mandarin teacher for Ease Mandarin.
Guo will spend New Year’s Eve with her boyfriend’s family this year. Then she plans on visiting friends and bringing them small gifts, she said.

The New Year remains a special time for Guo because she will turn a year older. The Chinese are one year old when they are born and turn a year older with each New Year, she said.

To keep the spirit of New Year’s alive, Yi Yuan said she takes her 12-year-old daughter to Yu Gardens to see the sights and learn the history behind the festival. Old city - with its traditional style buildings, teahouses and gardens - will be festive and busy.

“It’s the ideal place to experience the atmosphere,” Yi Yuan said.